Bechtold - 'Nef des Folles' - Pinot Gris - Alsace, FR - 2021

“Nef des Folles” translates to “the nave of the mad”—a nave being the central area of a church which houses the congregation. Jean-Marie may well consider himself slightly mad, in his gently self-deprecating way, for such unorthodox experimentation, but this wine makes a wholly compelling plea for his sanity. Comprising Pinot Gris from the Obere Hund vineyard macerated for twelve days on its skins and aged in a single old foudre, this Pinot Gris is vivid and luscious, with notes of honeycomb, ripe apricot, and chamomile. It is both palate-coating and gentle, exuding a sense of calm in its equipoise, and its total lack of added sulfur manifests in a palate of great purity and directness. Only 100 cases are imported.

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Jean-Marie Bechtold is the fourth generation to steward this traditional domaine. He began working with his father in 1980 and took the reins in 1995. The estate is located in Dahlenheim, west of Strasbourg in the slopes of the “Couronne d’Or”, a region with 2000 years of viticultural history.Among its 12 hectares of vineyards, the domaine has impressive holdings in the Grand Cru “Engelberg” site, complemented by parcels in three other vineyards: “Sussenberg”, “Obere Hund” and “Silberberg”. The most important vineyard of the village is the Grand Cru “Engelberg”, a hill rich in limestone that is famed for producing wines of elegance and structure. It has long been revered in the region and there is a mention of the Engelberg site in the main cathedral in Strasbourg, a reference dating to 890 A.D. Domaine Bechtold is the only organic grower in Dahlenheim and Jean-Marie Bechtold is currently making the conversion to biodynamic viticulture. Jean-Marie believes vinification and elevage must be approached as a parent raises a child: with patience, spirited attention and understanding of particular needs. He minimizes intervention during the vinification to allow the wines to express their own character and to remain faithful to the vintage. Virtually all fermentation is done in stainless steel tanks with the objective of capturing the fresh acidity and typical dry style of the region. The style is light, pure and elegant. The wines have a silky structure without being soft and they are complex without being overwhelming; they offer classic examples of the flavor and structure that defines this special terroir … cool, refined, dignified. -Rosenthal Wine Merchant