Ollos de Roque is the flagship of the fazenda. The vines are very young and many of them are grafted onto already quite young rootstocks. All the grapes come from the organic and biodynamically farmed Augalevada vineyard composed completely of granite. It is a mix of Treixadura, Lado and Agudelo. They are pressed directly and spend their fermentations partially in stainless steel at very low temperatures with another part in old oak barrels. The wine is aged in one-third amphora and two-thirds in old, 600-liter and 840-liter oak barrels for ten months. Starting in 2020, ancient 500-liter Jerez barrels (likely over 100 years old) have made it into the cellar and the results are beautiful. The comparison between French oak barrels and Jerez barrels is interesting: My initial observation was that the wines in the Jerez barrels were more cohesive and analog in frequency, while those in the younger (but still completely neutral) oak barrels were a little more edgy. It will be interesting to follow the wines in these old barrels.
"Iago Garrido may be destined to become one of Spain’s most influential winegrowers. I first encountered him and some of his wines with our friends from Cume do Avia in 2018, over lunch at O Mosteiro, by the Monasterio de San Clodio, in Galicia’s Ribeiro wine region; Iago and I were being set up, with all eyes on me. As we ate, a few white wines and a single red carried an unexpected throughline of aromas and textures unusual for the region, something Iago calls his “freaky.” I’ve come to think of it as his genius, and so has anyone who’s been fortunate enough to try the wines he bottles under Fazenda Augalevada.
Under the Veil
In 2014, Iago buried his first amphora filled with Treixadura out in the middle of his vineyard, and after a while he became convinced that it was a mistake. But sometimes mistakes can open your mind to new possibilities you may have never otherwise imagined and can even change the course of your life. What Iago thought was an errant shot actually hit a vein of gold.
Ollos de Roque (Eyes of Roque, his firstborn son), had two different versions in 2014 with the second (the supposed mistake) labeled as Número Dous (Number Two, in Galician). He sold Número Dous only to his friends and kept some bottles for himself. The wine that went to market was raised in oak barrels in his cellar and was headed in the direction he thought he was going. But his friends started to tell him how much they liked Número Dous, and Iago found the same unexpected pleasure in the wine as they did. Ultimately, he realized that it was the better of the two approaches.
Flor yeast is fascinating. Those in the wine industry know about this yeast veil that can form on the surface of a wine during its cellar aging, most famously in France’s Jura and Spain’s Jerez. My first contact with some iteration of flor was back in 2000, during my first harvest season at a winery in Santa Maria. During the stirring and topping of some Chardonnay barrels toward the end of their fermentation, I pulled the stainless steel bâtonnage wand and saw that it was covered in a glycerol, yeasty, net-like film. I thought this was a flaw, so I brought it to the attention of the winemaker, who smiled and said it was probably flor yeast and that it might actually contribute to the wine’s complexity.
Wines made under flor in Galicia rarely, if ever, go to market. But Iago said that some local winegrowers told him that in the past, the spring wines would often bloom with flor yeast. Back then, wines were most often drunk from the vat instead of from bottles. As the level of the vat went down and the temperature increased in the spring and summer, the flor protected the wine, and if it didn’t bloom in the vat, the wine wouldn’t last long.
Número Dous provided Iago with a clear path and what was once considered by him as “nothing more than an accident to avoid” became the central focus of his entire range, all of which have varying levels of flor influence."
Ted Vance - The Source Imports