There is a certain beauty in the ineluctable fact that this object lesson in “natural” wine-making (absolutely nothing added to the wine) should derive from Europe’s oldest wine culture. The sheer dimension and clarity of flavour, allied to a luxurious texture, yet all packed into an orderly frame, are breathtakingly good. There is nothing even remotely offbeat about this classy and delicious wine. Roditis is actually a dark-skinned grape which, when left to macerate as an Orange wine, takes on discernible pigmentation. Mercifully, this wine, while “natural” in every regard, has been respectfully permitted to remain “white”.
Another young winery founded in 1999 by the brothers Aristides and Eustatius Stathios, it offers a splendid range of impeccably made wines from both indigenous and international varietals at improbably low prices. The startling quality is greatly attributable to their stellar wine-maker, Panagiotis Pappagiannopoulos. The mindboggling vineyards rise to elevations of 1000 meters, ensuring that diurnal temperature range that is so often the lodestone of quality in Greece. Enjoying unique limestone soils and making wines only from free-run juice, Tetramythos offers a finesse and purity that are unexpected at this price level. The “Natural” series wines are made according to some biodynamic principles e.g. the whites are harvested, pressed and bottled on flower days, and the reds on fruit days.