François Chidaine - Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Pineau d'Aunis - Touraine, Loire Valley, FR - 2023

Notes from the Winery/Importer

Produced from equal amounts of Cot, Cabernet Franc & Pinot d’Aunis. From 100% estate biodynamically farmed vines located just north of the Cher river near the villages of Montrichard & Chissay-en Tourainne, this is a very promising wine. Known primarily for making some of the greatest white wines in the Loire region, Chidaine has been farming these vineyards for several years. Good dark concentration of fruit where neither varietal dominates, but rather compliments the others. The faintly mineral nose shows notes of pepper melded with the red fruit and leads into a wine with medium tannins, good concentration and length. Not a heavy wine, it has plenty of character, and bright acidity, which makes it a classic food wine to go with difficult pairings.

Notes on the Producer

François Chidaine is one of the Loire Valley’s great success stories. After finishing viticultural school in the mid-1980s, François went to work alongside his father, Yves, who had only four hectares of rented vineyard land in the appellation of Montlouis, in the Touraine. When Yves retired in 1989, he passed the torch to François. Early on, François developed clever contracts with the owners of the vineyards he worked, allowing him an option to buy should the property ever come up for sale. In 1999, his wife, Manuéla, joined him and set up La Cave Insolite, a tasting room and wine shop. Soon after, he started experimenting with organic and biodynamic farming, and by 2003, he was certified in both methods of farming. When in 2002, he and his cousin Nicolas Martin bought Vouvray’s prestigious Clos Baudoin, and in 2006 he bought several of the parcels he had been renting, this small artisan farmer became one of the Loire Valley’s most serious players. The majority of François’ terroirs are situated in Montlouis, with more in neighboring Vouvray, and additional land in the Touraine appellation, totaling more than 30 hectares. Before Montlouis had earned its own AOC in the 1950s, it was considered the lesser part of Vouvray due to the higher quantities of gravel and sand in the soil. In truth, there is a striking minerality derived from the flinty soils of Montlouis that has since given the appellation its own reputation for excellence. While François is a darling of the organic and biodynamic movements, he is by no means interested in indicating as much on the labels. Instead, he focuses on keeping his 40- to 80-year-old vines healthy and yields low, averaging 35 hl/ha. He follows the almanac developed by biodynamic legend, Maria Thun, which looks at both the solar and lunar calendars to establish the best timing for specific vine treatments. He and his team harvest the entire crop by hand. The grapes are pressed gently and are vinified on wild yeasts in both barrels and demi-muids. François seeks slow alcoholic fermentations that last all winter long, and avoids malolactic fermentations when possible. The cold limestone cellars allow the wines to develop more layers of complexity, which are simply unattainable when the process is rushed. Slow cuvaisons produce an antioxidant blanket of carbon dioxide, which allows the winemaker to put off adding sulfur to the wine, thereby lowering the total amount needed. Many of the wines age for 12 months on their lees before bottling. The sparkling Montlouis Brut also goes through alcoholic fermentation in demi-muids for more than five months, after which it is bottled and aged on its lees for 12 months to produce a delicious Chenin Blanc likely to impress devoted Champagne drinkers. In addition to their Montlouis and Vouvrays, the Chidaines also produce some stunning red and white wines from their Touraine vineyards just outside the Montlouis AOC. With such special care given to every step of the process, it’s no wonder that they sell out their stock within just a few months of bottling. We are lucky to receive these wines, as they remain some of the best values on the market today. -Beaune Wine Imports

Grapes & Style

Cabernet Franc

Cabernet Franc is an old Bordeaux and Loire red grape, and one of the parents of Cabernet Sauvignon. In Bordeaux it’s often part of a blend, bringing lift, perfume, and freshness; in the Loire, especially Chinon, Bourgueil, Saumur-Champigny, and Anjou, it stands on its own as one of the great medium-bodied red wines of France.

In the vineyard, Cabernet Franc ripens earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon, which helps it succeed in cooler regions. It still needs enough warmth to avoid hard green flavors, but when farmed well it can keep freshness while developing real aromatic complexity. It often works beautifully on limestone, gravel, and sandy soils, with style shifting depending on site.

In the glass, Cabernet Franc usually sits in a lovely middle zone: red and black fruit, fresh herbs, violet, graphite, pepper, and sometimes a subtle leafy edge. It can be light and crunchy or deeper and more structured, but it rarely needs heaviness to make its point. We like it for the way it combines freshness, savory detail, and quiet confidence.

Malbec

Malbec is an old southwest French grape that became famous in Argentina. In Cahors, where it’s historically known as Côt or Auxerrois, it can make dark, tannic, earthy wines; in Mendoza and other Argentine regions, it often shows a plusher, more generous side while still holding color and structure.

In the vineyard, Malbec needs warmth and sun but can lose freshness if pushed too far. It has relatively thin skins for such a deeply colored grape, and it can be sensitive to frost, coulure, and rot. In Argentina, altitude has been especially important, helping preserve acidity and aromatic lift.

In the glass, Malbec usually shows dark plum, blackberry, violet, cocoa, spice, and sometimes a smoky or earthy note. It can be soft and fruit-forward, or firm, savory, and mineral depending on place. The best versions balance their natural generosity with freshness and enough tannin to keep the wine grounded.

Pineau d'Aunis

Pineau d’Aunis is an old Loire red grape, still mostly found around Touraine, Loir-et-Cher, Coteaux du Loir, and Coteaux du Vendômois. Its “Pineau” name likely comes from the pine-cone shape of the bunches, similar to the origin of the name Pinot, while “Aunis” refers to the old French province.

In the glass, Pineau d’Aunis tends to make pale, lively, peppery wines. It’s often used for rosé or sparkling base wine, but the better red versions can be genuinely interesting — light in color and frame, but not flimsy, with freshness, spice, and sometimes a firmer tannic grip than expected. It’s an underrated Loire variety: historically important, not commonly planted nowadays, but capable of characterful wines when handled with care. We love Pineau d’Aunis.